Over the last week or so I have been getting my bike ready for Hellas Rally, which has included installing the Rade Garage fairing and auxiliary fuel tank. One of the reasons I went for the tank now, where I have been reluctant in the past, was that I’ve seen discussions about a vastly simpler way to plumb in the tank compared to the “official” instructions from Rade. As there has been some interest in this method amongst the community I thought it worth writing it up here.
Buy the KTM petcock, part number 58507003200, pictured below and two M6 bolts, 12mm long. Go for a ride and empty the tank as far as you dare, ride to reserve and then another 40km. I didn’t and wish I had; I got fuel everywhere! Remove the rear plastics – this requires you to remove a few bolts and an exceedingly awkward clip on the right hand side of the bike. The fuel filler cap (if stock) has to come out as well. Remove the long bolt that mounts the bottom of the fuel tank to the frame – it runs through the lower exhaust mounting. Lift your tank up, being careful not to yank any cables / fuel lines and fix it there. I fixed mine to the handlebars with a ratchet strap. If you need more detailed guidance on this process check out Perun Moto’s instructions for the sub-frame re-enforcement kit, the guide is for the 690 but isn’t substansively different on the 701. You’re going as far as step 7, but I would recommend buying his kit and doing that job at the same time.
Once you have space (I recommend removing the mudguard, makes life a lot easier) put a tray in from the right hand side of the bike to catch any fuel and loosen the bolts, marked below in red, that hold the fuel pump wiring in place enough to let any fuel run slowly out. Give the bike a wiggle, stand it fully upright, get as much fuel out as you can. Now it’s drilling time.
Use an 8mm wood/plastic drill bit and line it up at the drill point, marked below in red. Don’t be too scared, it’s marked with a circle and even has a little indent so you can feel that you have the bit in the right place. If you drill in the wrong place and have to buy a new tank you deserve it, frankly. Please comment below if you do that!
At this point I have to stress – be bloody careful. There may still be fuel in there – there was for me. You’ll be lying on your back drilling up into a fuel tank. If it comes out the wrong way it could get in your eyes. Hospital visit. No chomping cigars while doing this. Definite hospital visit. Be aware that even a little electric drill generates sparks in it’s electric motor. Yep, that’s a hospital visit too. Ideally you should use a hand drill, but I didn’t have one, so I ran my little battery drill slowly, drilled carefully and covered it with a plastic “shield” with a hole in it. I’m not in hospital, so it worked.
Installing the petcock is fairly obvious, but don’t forget the O ring which comes in the box. I also used a little blue thread locker, even though it’s not recommended on anything which screws into the tank. My thinking here was that I’d rather ruin the tank when removing the petcock than have it vibrate itself loose and trigger an explosion. Priorities. I have since been told that normal metal thread locker can damage plastic, so be warned – if you use it just use a little and just get it on the metal receiver thread. Point the petcock to the right side of the bike, see photo above, there’s no room if you point it at the exhaust – plus that thing gets supremely hot. I would recommend fitting the fuel line to the petcock, with clip, prior to installing it to the tank – it’s a small space and I can’t imagine fitting the line and clip would be easy in that small a gap.
At this point I recommend putting a few litres of fuel in the Rade tank with the petcock closed, just to check for leaks at the petcock or the wiring panel. I put the words “petcock closed” in bold for a good reason. Tim left it open. Tim got fuel all over the garage floor. Don’t be like Tim. Yes, you are reading a guide to performing a life threatening procedure written by a moron. You get what you pay for.
Now all you have to do is run the fuel pipe up to the tank and plumb it in however takes your fancy. That’s all covered in the Rade instructions. The only issue I had was that initially fuel did not flow; I blew in the filler for the Rade tank and cleared the air-lock in the pipe and the problem was solved. Personally I routed mine outside of the frame as, once the parts arrive, I will be fitting an in-line petcock and a quick disconnect to the exposed piece of pipe. The reason for the petcock is so I can use the Rade tank as a reserve, so under normal conditions I’ll never have to re-fill it – the filler will be under my tank bag and that’s a hassle I can do without. The reason for the quick disconnect is that if I need to steal fuel from the Rade tank, for example for cooking or for a stranded riding buddy, I can pull the quick connect and open the petcock.
Edit – 31/3/18 I was installing the petcock and noticed that the fuel line was partially trapped by the white plastic at the rear of the bike. I just bent the plastic away from the tank a little and cut it with a knife, to free up a little space. The edges of those plastic shrouds are sharp and with the vibration of the bike I am pretty sure they’d have shredded the fuel line eventually.
Update 24/1/20
I’m rebuilding the engine at the moment and will be re-routing the fuel line again. Not sure where yet.
Update 17/2/20
I’ve relocated the petcock to the little tang on the right hand side of the frame, under the seat and near the shock. It’s perfect; already has a captive nut, more stable, easily accessible but also well protected from knocks. The fuel line routing is around the back of the shock and then cable tied to the frame to keep it out of the way of the shock spring. On the other side of the petcock it’s routed much like before, basically laying over the throttle body and head cover and going into the tank. Photos to follow.
I hope this helps anyone who wants to do this method for installing the tank, if anyone has any questions please feel free to ask. Special thanks to Jens A Marcussen who kindly allowed me to use his photos from Facebook, my cameras are all either away or broken so I couldn’t take any. Jens removed his tank from the bike completely, so was able to get much better angles than I would have done.
More photos please
Of anything in particular? I think it’s pretty clear and taking the bike apart again to get more photos doesn’t really appeal!
Oh. I just wanted to see the new petcock location. Is that the tang where the pcv valve is mounted or the one the brake line is attached to before it routes down the swing arm.
That’s the right hand side of the bike, it makes the routing of the fuel line super easy. Hope it helps.
The fuel pump in my ’20 701 does not have a hose coming from it like yours in the pic so Im having a hard time getting a sense for where the petcock was installed on the tank.
Can you take a pic of where it is located when the bike is fully assembled? Id like to eyeball this project to make sure Im comfortable doing this before I jump in.
Also, I already drilled the hold in my fuel pump plastic holder as per the R/G instructions. If I change to this method, do I need to cover that hole up somehow or just throw it back together with the hole in it?
Lastly, thanks for all of your write-ups. Great work!
The holes you’ve already made in the fuel pump plastics are irrelevant, you can reassemble with them still there.
My bike is, sadly, not fully assembled at the moment, so I can’t take a good photo for you. I’ve done the best I can, but the engine is out and the exhaust is off. Both photos are looking at the left hand side of the bike. The petcock is circled in red and the exhaust usually runs where the orange scribble is. It’s important to note that unless you’ve installed it the petcock will not be there, it’s not a standard part. It’s pretty useful though as you can reach in there and close the tap – makes disassembly of the whole thing easier if you have fuel in both tanks.
I hope that helps!
This is perfect. Thanks for the reply!
Is there any reason you chose this over the standard R/G install into the fuel pump?
I just think the RG method is a little clunky. KTM provided a pre-marked place to drill and two captive nuts to put the screws into, it seemed better to use that than to put the block on the fuel pump. The other slight advantage is that I can close the petcock down there and then do what I want with the tank, fuel line and tap – even if the both tanks are full. For example if I want to lift the tank to service the suspension I can disconnect the fuel line at the fuel tap, main tank side, and keep my fuel in both tanks.
Ah so you’ll still use the on/off petcock from R/G for mid-ride switching but this will add to it.
I like this. Im going to order the part today and get to this job soon.
Thanks again for this and your other write-ups. Im going to fix the R/G intake and do the ABS dongle mod pretty soon.
Good stuff. If you’ve any questions on any of it just give me a shout!
Hey, Tim thanks for the additional pictures you sent of your install. I have installed mine the same way. Have you ever had any issues with duel puking from the auxiliary tank? I filled up pretty full about a week ago. I left the transfer petcock open. I had driven about 60 miles before starting this trip. It was warmer today and when I had ridden for about 45 minutes fuel started spewing out of the check valve on the filler cap. I stopped and opened the tank and it was full to the top…more full than I had filled it. I’m assuming that the fuel had expanded sitting on top of the warm motor and the main tank had built some pressure and possibly prevented any gravitational transfer. I suppose the solution might be to leave the transfer petcock closed until later in the ride and don’t fill the front tank so high.
No problem, glad it helped. You do pretty much have to keep the petcock closed or you’ll have leakage exactly as you’ve described. Personally I keep mine closed 99% of the time, only opening it when the fuel light is on and I don’t want to (or can’t) head directly to a fuel station. Effectively using it as a reserve tank.
The other plus is that most times I refuel I only need to fuel the main tank.
Hey Jeremiah, did you ever get this resolved. I had the same exact issue the other day in the same conditions riding some fairly aggressive dirt. Closing the petcock eventually stopped the fuel spillage but it was pretty bad.
Ken, my experience with the aux tank venting has been troubling. I see rade garage has stopped selling these tanks, so it may be they wish to avoid liability in case of bad outcomes. But, I like the extra gas and have these added thoughts…
My cute little orange vent cap went missing on my nebdr ride. It blew off, best I could tell. I leave my aux tank closed until needed (fuel light comes on), which means heat must be building lots of pressure in the aux tank. The problem I see is that the vent cap allows air in, but not air out! That stops spills when you fall over, but eliminates the chance of pressure being released.
So, I bought another vent cap, tested it was the same (air allowed in but not out) a s installed it. Just the other day it popped off like the first one.
I have now installed a clear blue fuel hose line onto the aux tank gas cap and looped it up in front of the ignition key and routed it down next the the rear tank vent coming out of the charcoal canister, on the right hand side. I presume I risk fuel leaking when I fall, but that tank needs to vent AND petcock stay closed so it doesn’t overfill the rear tank.
So far, it’s working well. I’d like to find a vent cap that is open both ways and closes with gravity in a tip over, like the Ktm dirt bike tank filler caps. But nothing yet. Until then I like this solution.
Safe riding.
The Rade tank is still for sale and available according to their website. I installed on 2021 Husqvarna 701 Enduro using Dirtbike Jesus method. I primarily use as a reserve tank and leave the petcock closed until the low fuel light comes on. I have left the petcock open and the tanks seem to be draining in unison as long as they are vented. I did canister and SAS delete. I ra a vent tube from the Rade tank with a loop in front if the ignition key, connected with a T fitting to the main tank vent and stuck the drain end into the skid plate. No problems with this setup so far.
I think you’re worrying too much about a minor thing. Fuel in it’s liquid state is exceedingly stable, you could run the engine up to temperature and pour a bottle of petrol over the thing and nothing would happen. It’s also not going to pop the tank or anything dramatic like that because, as you’ve noted, the vent cap will pop off well before that happens.
All that said I think you’ve got the best solution with the fuel line routing from the tank to somewhere near the ground, it’s what I’m doing on my “new” DR350. Simple and effective.
I’m feeling dense. Trying to understand WHY this is the best solution. You jump right into the work of adding a shut off in the bottom of the stock rear tank, without explaining what problem you’re solving with the various other solutions. It’s clear you’re onto something, but I would enjoy hearing your thoughts on why this is better than 1. The RG solution, 2. The passive solution of attaching aux tank to the rear tank’s vent hose, and venting from the aux tank. 3. Others?
I’ll venture answers to my own questions – why this solution is better:
RG option 1. Avoids messing with the fuel pump, drilling holes inside the protection boundaries of the filter.
Option 2. It connects as low as you can get in the rear tank. Meaning that the draining of the aux tank to the rear is optimized. It also also a vent in each tank, which in turn allows a fuel shut off from the aux tank and use of the front as ‘reserve only’.
Am I close? What’s NOT better about this choice? You mentioned an air lock. Has that happened often?
Many thanks for your write up.
Good questions and all good points.
The biggest advantage of doing it this way is that I’ve got a valve at both ends of the fuel line between the main and RG tank, this means that when I want to remove either tank – valve clearance check for example – I can do it regardless of how much fuel is in either tank.
The other part for me is that I just find it a more elegant solution than the RG block option. Rade’s solution has the major advantage of not having to drill your tank, so I get why he’s gone down that route. But if you’re willing to drill a premarked hole mine is just nicer, tidier.
As for the vent pipe solution… it asks an already notoriously unreliable fuel pump to do even more work, sucking in fuel through negative air pressure. Which doesn’t fill me with confidence. You also don’t have control over which tank drains first, so you’ll always have to fill both when you stop for fuel.
The air lock only happened once. Even if there is air in the line when you’re in motion the vibrations shake it all about enough to get things flowing.
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Thanks, Joeann Nona
Hi Tim
Thanks heaps for this write up. Made the install very simple.
I haven’t hooked up the venting as per RG instructions (join both tank vents together) as I am going to use the under seat tank as a reserve (so only open the petcock when the fuel light comes on). This should be ok? As I understand it they want the vent lines joined probably if you are running both tanks at once and when they are both full there would be a problem?
Also where you have now mounted the petcock, I have something else there using this mount (maybe a PCV?). You have removed this previously?
Many thanks
Tom.
Tom,
I never hooked up the tank venting either, in fact I don’t think my kit came with any option to do so. I’ve got the “short length of pipe with a shiny valve on top of it” style of venting on both fuel tank caps. As long as both tanks can breathe as they drain I don’t think it matters at all what you do.
My bike didn’t come with anything on that little tang I used, although I think it’s used for something in some of the newer versions. You’ll have to get creative with where you put the petcock I guess – although you could just let the fuel pipe support it’s weight, it’s not heavy. Might make it tricky to use with one hand though.
A couple of comments.
I just bought and installed the rg tank, the ‘recommended’ way. I had no marked spot on my tank to do the dirt bike Jesus extra petcock approach with any confidence (aka, no built up area for screws to hold). I wrote to rg, and Richard, the main communicator there, said they know of other approaches yet still recommend their design. So, it’s non destructive enough, I thought I’d start with it. And I was replacing the pump and filter (at 12k miles) anyway.
The install is a bit of a p.I.t.a. The crankcase venting back to the airbox is a pain, the air temp sensor is 8 inches too short, the giant billet fuel inlet block screwed into the plastic tank give me anxiety. I comes precipitously close to the swing arm at full shock compression (1/8 inch?) and I already have one screw that was molded into the tank loose. If the fuel pump screws fail, the tank is toast.
The vent feed idea has been done by camel adventure for the new T700 and it’s a low tank pulling gas uphill all day. The vent is in the aux tank only, per this design and it works great on my buddy’s bike.
My idea for a vent feed uses a 3 way petcock. You need ONLY the aux tank to vent when pulling fuel from it using the main tank fuel pump, of course. But if you want to turn off the aux tank to prevent vent overflow when both tanks are full, you can’t leave the main tank unvented.
A 3-Way petcock allows both conditions. With an A-B-C vent, where A-B or B-C are connected, with third position of all off.
– Vent the aux tank, per usual.
– Connect the aux gas line to A, the rear tank vent line to B, and a new vent line to C.
– When the petcock is set to A-B, the aux tank feeds the main, as in the vacuum designed approach.
– When the petcock is set to B-C, the front tank feed is closed and the rear tank is vented as in a stock bike.
If my standard rg install doesn’t last or work well, I’ll try this next.
Rob
That seems a pretty good idea, especially as you’re only using the tank as a reserve. I like it.
Share your results here if you like, people might find it useful.
Rob,
Doesn’t the stock have its own vent?
Then the RG tank has a vent on the gas cap?
If yes to both, What would be the reason for doing this 3 way petcock method?
Lastly, where do you find such a petcock?
Both stock and rade tanks have vents. If both are vented the fuel pump can’t create a vacuum to pull gas from the aux tank. So, when you want the aux gas, you turn the stock vent into the gas feed from the aux tank. I should draw a picture.
The 3 way petcock is apparently a common atv item. Found several on Amazon. Black plastic, like $16.
Thats an interesting concept. Im going to give that some thought. I would think the aux tank vent allows the aux tank to fill the main tank (using the method in this thread, not the R/G method), then the main tank can vent as needed for the pump… but again, Im no engineer so Ill give that some more thought.
Regarding your solution, the ATV petcocks seem to have 2 inputs and one output. How would you use that as a shared vent (to line B, in your example) alone with the feed to the stock tank?
https://www.amazon.com/Flameer-Upgraded-Petcock-Fuel-Valve/dp/B07PBSZW9K
Have you experienced any issues thus far that would require this method?
I’m no engineer either, for the record! Well, software engineer from long ago, but no hydraulic studies involved in that.
Picture a ‘y’ shaped straw. One end in an open glass with your choice of beverage, one end in your mouth (fuel pump) and one end out into the air above the drink. You’d get zero liquid unless you were pulling harder than the vent can supply air to you. That’s both tanks vented.
Picture a straw in a drink (aux), connected to an airtight container with or without a drink in it, finally connected to your mouth. That’s vacuum assisted.
In example #2, if you put a 3-way petcock between open glass and airtight container, you’d have my idea. Petcock could vent the airtight container while closing the feed from the open glass, OR it could open the feed from the open glass, while closing the vent.
If Tom’s correct and gravity is enough to let the aux tank drain into the main tank, this is all over engineering. If Tom’s thought works but is problematic/weak, the vacuum idea could make it better.
That’s all I’ve got!
The main tank should fill from the aux tank just by gravity, exactly the same as an older carbureted bike for example.
Hi Tom. As I look at my 690, the main Tank vent is as high or higher than the aux tank brass outlet. I didn’t try it, but I’m concerned that it’s a pretty weak force trying to get gas moving the right direction, especially if there are any uphill sections in the hose. Might work fine, but that’s one of the beautiful things about your feed to the main tank down low. Wish my Ktm tank had that molding.
I guess my 3-way petcock solution could be described as gravity assisted for the main tank and vacuum assisted (provided by fuel pump) for the aux tank feed.
Hi Rob, with 3 way petcock solution, if you will start to drain the main tank first and you would drain it to the reserve, would you build enough vacuum in the main tank to pool the gas from rade garage tank?
If so, in this scenario, would auxiliary tank drain completely or even close to the bottom ?
HI I have a 2017 Kim 690 cannot fine where you installed the petcock ? are there some years that don’t have the threaded bolt holes install?
Dale, I’ve heard that there might be some that don’t have it. If it’s not obvious to you then it’s really not an option unless you can reliably install your own threads in the tank.
I am currently doing the Rade tank install on a new Husky 701 using the Dirtbike Jesus method. Would there be any advantage to using an adhesive heat reflective shield on the underside of the Rade tank? I sometimes over think things, but seems to me that any heat deflection could only help. Any past experience or advise would be appreciated. Thanks.
That’s highly debatable. My bike overheated to the point where the engine died, even that excessive level of heat didn’t affect the tank at all.
Some people are concerned about the fuel expanding, but… meh. I don’t see it being a problem. Even if you absolutely max out the tank and it does expand and overflow a little nothing will happen, fuel is exceptionally stable and won’t ignite just by getting some on the engine.
Also, look at 90% of bikes out there. Most have the tank over the engine, very few have any meaningful heat shielding and they don’t all burst into flames. I think you’re overthinking it, but if it makes you feel better then it’s worth the small effort involved.
I added heat shield tape to my rade tank. Why not. It sits very close to the engine and the venting ‘out’ using the supplied vent cap is super slow. I lost a vent cap and suspect it popped off from fast expanding air. And to prevent front tank overflow from rear tank backfill, I keep the petcock off to the aux until the bike registers low fuel. So pressure is a real risk.
I always used mine as a reserve too, never had any issues with venting but then I had the old style metal cap.
Thanks for the input. Since I have heat shield material I will stick it on. I have done away with the SAS/charcoal canister and planning to vent both tanks together and run a tube out the bottom near the skid plate. I plan on the Rade tank as reserve and will leave it closed until needed. I appreciate all input from those with experience. Thanks again.
Pleasure!
My RG aux tank kit just arrived today to be installed in my 2023 701. Included in the box is an adhesive-backed heat shield mat that seems to fit the bottom of the fuel tank. Looking at the RG-linked installation video – this heat shield is not shown. I wonder if it was a recent add to the kits.
Probably best to ask Rade themselves, I’m long out of the 701 scene. But if they’ve added it it’s a nice addition, if only for piece of mind.
They added the heat shield after the video. Its not necessary but worth it, in my opinion.
I’d add the heat shielding for sure. It’s gasoline sitting an inch from a cylinder head. Creates expansion pressure in the aux tank and adds extreme heat cycles to the plastic tank. As important, make sure your vent hose on the aux tank can breathe both ways. The vent they provided me only breathed IN, which meant I couldn’t keep the petcock off because it would pop the vent right off the hose. I eventually routed a longer piece of vent hose down the right side near the main tank vent opening. It leaks if I fall over, but not much.
I pulled the RG aux tank vent out of the plastic bag just now to check: It only lets air in, not out – like yours. I wonder if that is to meet evaporative emissions standards. The Feds don’t like gas fumes going anywhere.
Never thought of the Feds. That now makes total sense that it doesn’t work. 🤪
Possibly. I added reflective tape that I already had. You will love the added fuel capacity and the DBJ installation is pretty easy. Only problem I have had is the Rade tank will siphon into the main tank and overflow at the vent when filling tanks. Keep the Rade shut off closed until needed. Good luck with installation.
Thank you so much for taking the time to post all of this information. I am awaiting delivery of my 2023 701 for use on long adventure rides in the US. My group is knocking off as many of the BackCountry Discovery Routes as we can. Having a reliable 200 mile fuel range is important and this RG tank fits the bill.
What has been your experience with the radical modification of the airbox? I imagine a KTM engineer somewhere crying at the idea of throwing out that large, carefully-engineered box. Have you seen problems with water ingress during river crossings? I understand that the induction noise is higher. Any other real-world concerns with the tiny RG airbox?
I’m really happy that this article is still providing useful for people. I never imagined it would still see traffic so many years later! Happy I’ve been able to help.
For what it’s worth, I don’t think the KTM tech will be in tears about his airbox. They’re designed to meet noise standards more than anything else, on the dyno at work the airbox is one of the bits that’ll be changed out on nearly any bike where we’re aiming at peak performance.
Wading height… you’re a brave man if you’re going that deep on a 701! Most mortals do not need to think about such things.
I think these do great crossing waters!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0d5r5cuxkfmnko6/2021-08-22%2015.02.24%20copy.jpg?dl=0
No doubt. But if you’re getting up to the Rade airbox your getting ambitious! But maybe I’m just a big wuss… 😀
You’re going to love the 701 on the BDR’s. I have ridden the nebdr and WYBDR on a 690. Nebdr is challenging and a lighter bike really helps. In Wyoming, I went to the reserve tank twice, I think. Alcova to Atlantic City was the longest stretch between gas stations. Longer if you miss Wild Bill’s 50 gallon drums of gas in Atlantic City.
Air box seems fine. It’s a small surface area, so I use filter socks (actually using pool filter covers – cheap and effective) to allow me to keep it cleaner without always swapping the full twin-air filter. It’s a p.I.t.a. to swap, as it’s a very tight space. Water ingress has not been an issue. Will be if you dump it!
We have done AZ, NM, NE , WY and most of CA and NV. I did CA/NV and WY on my BMW310GS and NE/NM on an F850 GSA. The 850 is heavy – the 310 can’t do the WY highway speeds. The 701/690 are the main choice for my pals. I succumbed to the peer pressure and put down a deposit on a 2023. It will carry through CO next fall.
Sweet. I’m envious. My 690 did COBDR. Before I owned it! CO seems like a beautiful ride. Enjoy that one. If you get east again, do the PA part of the MABDR. That’s the very best part. None of it is very difficult, a few baby heads in PA. Down south, Sections 2 and 3 are nice too. The rest is a lot of pretty paved or groomed gravel riding.
OK – I kicked off orders for all of these parts: KTM petcock, quick-disconnect, frame petcock. Hopefully the bikes show up before the parts!
I got my 2023 701 yesterday!! I am happy to report that the Rade Garage aux tank install is moving ahead smoothly following these instructions. I managed only a tiny fuel spill while drilling the 7 mm hole for the new petcock. The trick was taping up my drill bit flutes and having the petcock (with o-ring greased in place) at the ready. I got 1/2 way through the process before knocking off for the evening last night. I’ll finish up this morning.
Thanks for your insight!! I like this method better than the Rade Garage instructions. I like that I don’t molest the OE fuel pump. The “join the vents” method never made any sense to me as it forces you to fill both tanks when you need extra fuel. I like the “fill it and forget it” feature. I also like having multiple petcocks to seal off either tank in case of service. Of course, it is only the remains of the elusive 701 LR with dual tanks that makes this possible. I wonder when Husqvarna will eliminate that mounting feature??? I’m told that the LR won’t pass the evaporative emissions standards in Europe – so it is gone for good.
It’s got little to do with the 701LR, the captive nuts and marked drill location have been on the bike since release in 2016 – mine was one of the first 701s. Pretty sure you’ll find the same on the older 690s. It’s there for the factory rally tanks – although they are rare as rocking horse shit.
I’m happy the guide helped. So much easier to get this kind of fuel range on my DR350 though… 😀
Nowhere to mount the additional petcock as in this method on my ‘23 690 enduro. I’m surprised it is apparently available on the current 701. I thought they used the same tank.
Useful information, thanks for sharing.
Can’t seem to find the boltholes neither on my ’21 701 🤔☹️
I’m afraid I have been out of the KTM/LC4 world for so long now that I can’t confirm or deny, but it’s good you’ve posted – might help some owners of the newer bikes.
My ‘21 701 has the captured nuts and dimple in tank for installation. I did it about 2 years ago and no problems.
FYI – I did the Colorado Backcountry Discovery Route this year with my 701 and needed the aux tank gas twice. it worked perfectly. Just be sure you connect up the vent hoses as described. Initially, I had mine plugged and had fuel spew out of the cap vent. It was an easy fix once I figured out my mistake. Perfect now.